Set in stone

December 6, 2010

Captain Stompypants, Smasher of Hunger. He was going to be a one-off until I read the rules for Cassius the Oathkeeper.

It’s been another long lapse since the last post in this space. So when I received a request on Twitter to come up with a how-to for the sandstone I’m using for my burgeoning Circle Orboros army, I really couldn’t say no.

Out of the hundreds of minis I’ve painted, this really is one of my favorite color schemes. Very few of my armies follow the studio scheme; I’ve always gotta do something different. And Circle is no exception. No green or gray for me; sandstone and orange for the constructs, autumnal browns and oranges for forest/tree walkers. It’s a different palette for me and so far, it’s challenged me as a painter and forced me to come up with new ways to do things.

Since the one model I have in progress doesn’t have any stone work on it, I chose one of my resin bases for the tutorial. Four colors, one wash and about 5 minutes gets some pretty solid results.

Resin base, black primer

Basecoat the rock with Bloodstone. If you're painting a construct, you'll want to drybrush for a rougher, non-uniform look.

Drybrush the textured surface. You'll want to let the black primer shaded the recesses for you. Don't worry about being messy!

Drybrush everything with Gun Corps Brown. This is your first layer of highlight, so don't go too heavy. On a model with well-defined edges like a Wold Guardian, you'll want to make sure the highlights are visible, but not too heavy. Two more layers to go.

Drybrush with Moldy Ochre. Try not to completely cover the highlights you just did.

Final highlight: Menoth White Base. This should be your lightest, most well-defined edge.

Wash heavily with Citadel Ogryn Flesh wash. Yes, I realize this is a product from that “other company.” But since the wash is reddish, it's going to unify all four of those colors and blend everything together. We'll talk about other washes to use in a bit.

Final step: Paint the rim of the base black. Done!

If you didn’t want your stone to have a reddish hue, Citadel’s Gryphonne Sepia wash is a nice warm sepia (duh) tone. For a dirtier, grittier look, Devlan Mud is a fantastic wash that will dirty up the most pristine looking models. It’s actually what I washed all of my Cygnar with. We’ll have to revisit washes, inks and glazes in another installment. There are a lot of tips and tricks my buddies and I have discovered and they’re too good not to share.

As for the Circle force I’m working on, it’s mostly models that are a part of Cassius’ theme. I haven’t picked up everything I need to build it, so I had to substitute some models for painting purposes. The crew back in Boise is running a slow-grow painting league and I figured I’d paint along even though I won’t be able to get any league games in. If there’s one thing the 100-point painting challenge taught me, it’s the importance of structure and VERY attainable goals when painting an army.

So here’s what I’m working on for the next month or so:

Army Name: Circle SG 15
Circle Orboros
15+6 points, 12 models
Cassius the Oathkeeper  +6 points
* Wurmwood, Tree of Fate
* Gnarlhorn Satyr  8 points
Shifting Stones  2 points
* Stone Keeper  1 point
3 Warpborn Skinwalkers  5 points
Wolf Lord Morraig  5 points

The jump to 25 points will be an easy one — Megalith. He’ll be a good candidate for a step-by-step tutorial, assuming my train hasn’t jumped the tracks by then!

Wyatt, Doc, Virgil, Morgan and Stompypants. Still debating if the Shifting Stone crew will get fancy bases or not.

Wyatt. He regulated on some dwarves not too long ago. He should've killed more of the stunty bastards.

Doc? Is that you? Are you really gonna be my Huckleberry? Or is this Morgan or Virgil? Yeah, they all look alike...

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Maybe something to help when pinning…

April 21, 2009

I picked up the Privateer Press P3 video a while back, and watched it as I sat and painted. Well, OK, I watched while my paint dried.

One of the assembly tricks suggested when pinning was to use “blue tack” or “sticky tack” to align the holes  for easier line up. I thought I would share that here as well. Sticky Tack can be found at hardware and department stores for the most part, and it is pretty inexpensive. It is used to hang posters (where you can’t use nails or don’t want to use tape) and temporarily hold things together. Good stuff.

I was asked very kindly (and I offered) to assemble a unit of Steelhead Halbardiers to avoid frustration on the part of the owner of said models. I had done this before, and it would be my 3rd time doing so.

I assembly lined everything, putting legs and bodies on bases and figuring out which parts were going to go to which models. If you haven’t assembled Halbardiers, they come in many pieces and can be a royal pain to get together. Some of the bodies are apart from the legs, only 2 of them have join markings, and I pinned those with ease. The other 4 models do not have any markings, and can be a challenge to get the pins lined up. The other alternative is to green stuff the models together and use the ZAP CA (the pink bottle) to get in the cracks and make a good join. This was not the case for me. I pinned them.

Using the trick mentioned in the P3 video, it became much easier.

I drilled the hole in the torso of the model, then rolled up a small ball of sticky tack and put it between the legs and torso of the models and pressed them together (much like you would green stuff). One quick note is that you want to wet the side with the hole already drilled, or it will stick everything together and you will lose the location you want to drill. The stuff really sticks things together, though it is temporary.

The sticky tack in the middle

The sticky tack in the middle

When I separated the pieces, I was left with a small indent where the hole needed to be, and was able to get the pin holes aligned without much of  a problem. Another note is that you want to start the hole and then remove the blue stuff. It will stick to your pin bit and the metal you drill out of the hole, making it unusable for the next model. That is the other beauty, you can re-use the same piece for as many models as you need to pin. Pretty cost effective.

now I know where to drill

now I know where to drill

What isn’t obvious in the picture above is that I got the torso backwards. I noticed this after I had drilled my hole. Luckily, this was the second model out of the four, and I was able to use the technique on the next one to get the pin holes to line up.

The rest of the assembly went fairly quick, and I had thought about pinning the arms and heads,  but decided instead to green stuff and ‘pink’ glue them, which does hold up well in most cases.

I went on to assemble a Gnarlhorn Satyr using the blue tack method to align my pin holes and had no more troubles all day.

Hope this helps someone out there. The P3 video is pretty good overall, kind of nice to see that I have learned some things over the past few years. I am anxious to see what they bring us in volume 2.

Thanks for checking in-

scott


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